The Book

Reading several accounts as one portfolio

A retirement plan, an old rollover, a brokerage account and a savings account are one pool of money split across four statements. How to add them up by what they hold, and what the total is for.

Money · Updated 5 October 2026 · 4 minute read

Most people who invest do it in several places at once: a retirement plan at work, an account left over from an earlier job, perhaps an individual retirement account, a brokerage account and some savings. Each sends its own statement, and each statement describes only itself. The question that matters, how the money as a whole is spread, is one that no single statement answers.

Why the total matters more than any one account

The mix of broad asset types in a portfolio, such as shares, bonds and cash, explains most of how much its value moves up and down over time. Picking between two similar funds matters far less than whether the whole is 80 percent in shares or 50 percent.

That mix exists only at the level of the total. A workplace plan that looks cautious and a brokerage account that looks bold may add up to something moderate. Two accounts that each look sensible may add up to the same handful of large companies held four times over.

Step one: list what you hold

For every account, write down each holding and its current value. Include cash, and include the accounts that are easy to forget: an old employer's plan, a health savings account that is invested, savings bonds, shares in an employer.

Step two: sort each holding by what it is

The account a holding sits in says how it is taxed. It says nothing about what the holding is. So classify each one by its contents:

ClassWhat belongs in it
Domestic sharesFunds and individual shares of companies in your own country
International sharesFunds holding companies elsewhere
BondsBond funds, individual bonds, savings bonds
CashSavings, money market funds, short certificates of deposit
OtherProperty funds, commodities, anything that fits nowhere else

Funds that hold a mixture need to be split. A target-date fund or a balanced fund is part shares and part bonds, and its fact sheet states the proportions. A target-date fund that is 70 percent shares counts as 70 percent shares, not as a category of its own. Skipping this step is the usual reason a portfolio turns out to be riskier or safer than its owner believed.

Step three: add it up

Total each class across every account and divide by the grand total. The result is a short list of percentages, and it is the first honest description of the portfolio.

Look for two things in it. The first is the split between shares and everything else, which sets how rough the ride will be. The second is concentration: a single company, including an employer, that makes up a large share of the whole. Holding a great deal of your employer's shares ties your savings to the same business that pays your salary.

Step four: compare it with what you meant

A target mix is a decision about how much of the portfolio should be in each class. It depends on when the money is needed and how large a fall you could watch without selling. Money for a house deposit in two years and money for a retirement in thirty call for very different mixes, and it is reasonable to treat them as separate pools with separate targets.

With a target in hand, the comparison is a subtraction. If the plan was 60 percent shares and the total shows 71, the portfolio has drifted, usually because shares rose and nobody sold any.

Bringing it back, the gentle way

Selling what has grown and buying what has lagged brings the mix back to its target. There is a quieter method that suits anyone still adding money: direct each new contribution to whichever class is furthest below its target. Nothing is sold, so no tax is triggered, and the portfolio is nudged back toward its plan with money that was going in anyway.

When selling is needed, doing it inside a tax-sheltered retirement account generally avoids an immediate tax bill, where the same sale in an ordinary brokerage account may create one. Because the target applies to the total, it does not matter which account does the adjusting.

How often to look

Once or twice a year is enough, or when the mix has moved more than about five percentage points from its target. Checking more often mostly produces the urge to act, and acting on short-term movements is one of the more reliable ways to do worse than the plan.

What the exercise does not do

It does not tell you what the target should be, and it does not predict anything. It turns four statements into one picture, so that a decision about the next dollar is made with the whole of the money in view.

This guide is general education, not investment, tax or financial advice, and it does not recommend any security or allocation. Tax rules depend on the type of account and where you live. A licensed adviser can give advice that fits your circumstances.

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